Troubles of a Tourist Agent.—His Views on Tourists.—The English Woman Abroad.—And at Home.—The Ugliest Cathedral in Europe.—Old Masters and New.—Victual-and-Drink-Scapes.—The German Band.—A “Beer Garden.”—Not the Women to Turn a Man’s Head.—Difficulty of Dining to Music.—Why one should Keep one’s Mug Shut.  
I think myself it is Saturday.  B. says it is only Friday; but I am positive I have had three cold baths since we left Ober-Ammergau, which we did on Wednesday morning.  If it is only Friday, then I have had two morning baths in one day.  Anyhow, we shall know to-morrow by the shops being open or shut.
 
We travelled from Oberau with a tourist agent, and he told us all his troubles.  It seems that a tourist agent is an ordinary human man, and has feelings just like we have.  This had never occurred to me before.  I told him so.
 
“No,” he replied, “it never does occur to you tourists.  You treat us as if we were mere¹ Providence³, or even the Government itself.  If all goes well, you say, what is the good of us, contemptuously; and if things go wrong, you say, what is the good of us, indignantly.  I work sixteen hours a day to fix things comfortably for you, and you cannot even look satisfied; while if a train is late, or a hotel proprietor⁴ overcharges, you come and bully⁵ me about it.  If I see after you, you mutter that I am officious; and if I leave you alone, you grumble⁶ that I am neglectful.  You swoop⁷ down in your hundreds upon a tiny village like Ober-Ammergau without ever letting us know even that you are coming, and then threaten to write to the Times because there is not a suite⁸ of apartments and a hot dinner waiting ready for each of you.
 
“You want the best lodgings⁹ in the place, and then, when at a tremendous cost of trouble, they have been obtained for you, you object to pay the price asked for them.  You all try and palm yourselves off for dukes and duchesses, travelling in disguise.  You have none of you ever heard of a second-class railway carriage—didn’t know that such things were made.  You want a first-class Pullman car reserved for each two of you.  Some of you have seen an omnibus in the distance, and have wondered what it was used for.  To suggest that you should travel in such a plebeian¹⁰ conveyance¹¹, is to give you a shock that takes you two days to recover from.  You expect a private carriage, with a footman in livery, to take you through the mountains.  You, all of you, must have the most expensive places in the theatre.  The eight-mark and six-mark places are every bit as good as the ten-mark seats, of which there are only a very limited number; but you are grossly insulted if it is hinted that you should sit in anything but the dearest chairs.  If the villagers would only be sensible and charge you ten marks for the eight-mark places you would be happy; but they won’t.”
 
I must candidly¹² confess that the English-speaking people one meets with on the Continent are, taken as a whole, a most disagreeable contingent¹³.  One hardly ever hears the English language spoken on the Continent, without hearing grumbling¹⁴ and sneering¹⁵.
 
The women are the most objectionable.  Foreigners undoubtedly¹⁶ see the very poorest specimens¹⁷ of the female kind we Anglo-Saxons have to show.  The average female English or American tourist is rude and self-assertive, while, at the same time, ridiculously helpless and awkward.  She is intensely selfish, and utterly¹⁸ inconsiderate of others; everlastingly¹⁹ complaining, and, in herself, drearily²¹ uninteresting.  We travelled down in the omnibus from Ober-Ammergau with three perfect specimens of the species, accompanied by the usual miserable-looking man, who has had all the life talked out of him.  They were grumbling the whole of the way at having been put to ride in an omnibus.  It seemed that they had never been so insulted in their lives before, and they took care to let everybody in the vehicle know that they had paid for first-class, and that at home they kept their own carriage.  They were also very indignant because the people at the house where they had lodged²² had offered to shake hands with them at parting.  They did not come to Ober-Ammergau to be treated on terms of familiarity by German peasants, they said.
 
There are many women in the world who are in every way much better than angels.  They are gentle and gracious, and generous and kind, and unselfish and good, in spite of temptations and trials to which mere angels are never subjected.  And there are also many women in the world who, under the clothes, and not unfrequently under the title of a lady, wear the heart of an underbred snob²³.  Having no natural dignity, they think to supply its place with arrogance²⁴.  They mistake noisy bounce for self-possession, and supercilious²⁵ rudeness as the sign of superiority.  They encourage themselves in sleepy stupidity under the impression that they are acquiring aristocratic “repose.”  They would appear to have studied “attitude” from the pages of the London Journal, coquetry from barmaids—the commoner class of barmaids, I mean—wit from three-act farces²⁶, and manners from the servants’-hall.  To be gushingly²⁷ fawning²⁸ to those above them, and vulgarly insolent²⁹ to everyone they consider below them, is their idea of the way to hold and improve their position, whatever it may be, in society; and to be brutally³⁰ indifferent to the rights and feelings of everybody else in the world is, in their opinion, the hall-mark of gentle birth.
 
They are the women you see at private views, pushing themselves in front of everybody else, standing³¹ before the picture so that no one can get near it, and shouting out their silly opinions, which they evidently imagine to be brilliantly satirical remarks, in strident tones: the women who, in the stalls of the theatre, talk loudly all through the performance; and who, having arrived in the middle of the first act, and made as much disturbance³² as they know how, before settling down in their seats, ostentatiously get up and walk out before the piece is finished: the women who, at dinner-party and “At Home”—that cheapest and most deadly uninteresting of all deadly uninteresting social functions—(You know the receipt for a fashionable “At Home,” don’t you?  Take five hundred people, two-thirds of whom do not know each other, and the other third of whom cordially dislike each other, pack them, on a hot day, into a room capable of accommodating forty, leave them there to bore one another to death for a couple of hours with drawing-room philosophy and second-hand³³ scandal; then give them a cup of weak tea, and a piece of crumbly cake, without any plate to eat it on; or, if it is an evening affair, a glass of champagne³⁴ of the you-don’t-forget-you’ve-had-it-for-a-week brand, and a ham-sandwich, and put them out into the street again)—can do nothing but make spiteful remarks about everybody whose name and address they happen to know: the women who, in the penny ’bus (for, in her own country, the lady of the new school is wonderfully economical and business-like), spreads herself out over the seat, and, looking indignant when a tired little milliner gets in, would leave the poor girl standing with her bundle for an hour, rather than make room for her—the women who write to the papers to complain that chivalry³⁵ is dead!
 
B., who has been looking over my shoulder while I have been writing the foregoing, after the manner of a Family Herald³⁶ story-teller’s wife in the last chapter (fancy a man having to write the story of his early life and adventures with his wife looking over his shoulder all the time! no wonder the tales lack incident), says that I have been living too much on sauerkraut and white wine; but I reply that if anything has tended to interfere³⁸ for a space with the deep-seated love and admiration³⁹ that, as a rule, I entertain for all man and woman-kind, it is his churches and picture-galleries.
 
We have seen enough churches and pictures since our return to Munich to last me for a very long while.  I shall not go to church, when I get home again, more than twice a Sunday, for months to come.
 
The inhabitants of Munich boast that their Cathedral is the ugliest in Europe; and, judging from appearances, I am inclined to think that the claim must be admitted.  Anyhow, if there be an uglier one, I hope I am feeling well and strong when I first catch sight of it.
 
As for pictures and sculptures, I am thoroughly⁴⁰ tired of them.  The greatest art critic living could not dislike pictures and sculptures more than I do at this moment.  We began by spending a whole morning in each gallery.  We examined each picture critically, and argued with each other about its “form” and “colour” and “treatment” and “perspective” and “texture” and “atmosphere.”  I generally said it was flat, and B. that it was out of drawing.  A stranger overhearing our discussions would have imagined that we knew something about painting.  We would stand in front of a canvas for ten minutes, drinking it in.  We would walk round it, so as to get the proper light upon it and to better realise the artist’s aim.  We would back away from it on to the toes of the people behind, until we reached the correct “distance,” and then sit down and shade our eyes, and criticise⁴¹ it from there; and then we would go up and put our noses against it, and examine the workmanship in detail.
 
This is how we used to look at pictures in the early stages of our Munich art studies.  Now we use picture galleries to practise spurts⁴² in.
 
I did a hundred yards this morning through the old Pantechnicon in twenty-two and a half seconds, which, for fair heel-and-toe walking, I consider very creditable.  B. took five-eighths of a second longer for the same distance; but then he dawdled⁴³ to look at a Raphael.
 
The “Pantechnicon,” I should explain, is the name we have, for our own purposes, given to what the Munichers prefer to call the Pinakothek.  We could never pronounce Pinakothek properly.  We called it “Pynniosec,” “Pintactec,” and the “Happy Tack⁴⁴.”  B. one day after dinner called it the “Penny Cock,” and then we both got frightened, and agreed to fix up some sensible, practical name for it before any mischief⁴⁵ was done.  We finally decided⁴⁶ on “Pantechnicon,” which begins with a “P,” and is a dignified⁴⁷, old-established name, and one that we can both pronounce.  It is quite as long, and nearly as difficult to spell, before you know how, as the other, added to which it has a homely⁴⁸ sound.  It seemed to be the very word.
 
The old Pantechnicon is devoted⁴⁹ to the works of the old masters; I shall not say anything about these, as I do not wish to disturb in any way the critical opinion that Europe has already formed concerning them.  I prefer that the art schools of the world should judge for themselves in the matter.  I will merely remark here, for purposes of reference, that............