It was the beginning of February, new style, when we set out from Pekin.  My partner and the old pilot had gone express back to the port where we had first put in, to dispose of some goods which we had left there; and I, with a Chinese merchant whom I had some knowledge of at Nankin, and who came to Pekin on his own affairs, went to Nankin, where I bought ninety pieces of fine damasks, with about two hundred pieces of other very fine silk of several sorts, some mixed with gold, and had all these brought to Pekin against my partner’s return.  Besides this, we bought a large quantity of raw silk, and some other goods, our cargo¹ amounting, in these goods only, to about three thousand five hundred pounds sterling²; which, together with tea and some fine calicoes, and three camels’ loads of nutmegs and cloves³, loaded in all eighteen camels for our share, besides those we rode upon; these, with two or three spare horses, and two horses loaded with provisions, made together twenty-six camels and horses in our retinue⁴.  
The company was very great, and, as near as I can remember, made between three and four hundred horses, and upwards⁵ of one hundred and twenty men, very well armed and provided for all events; for as the Eastern caravans⁶ are subject to be attacked by the Arabs, so are these by the Tartars.  The company consisted of people of several nations, but there were above sixty of them merchants or inhabitants of Moscow, though of them some were Livonians; and to our particular satisfaction, five of them were Scots, who appeared also to be men of great experience in business, and of very good substance.
 
When we had travelled one day’s journey, the guides, who were five in number, called all the passengers, except the servants, to a great council, as they called it.  At this council every one deposited a certain quantity of money to a common stock, for the necessary expense of buying forage⁸ on the way, where it was not otherwise to be had, and for satisfying the guides, getting horses, and the like.  Here, too, they constituted the journey, as they call it, viz. they named captains and officers to draw us all up, and give the word of command, in case of an attack, and give every one their turn of command; nor was this forming us into order any more than what we afterwards found needful on the way.
 
The road all on this side of the country is very populous⁹, and is full of potters and earth-makers—that is to say, people, that temper the earth for the China ware¹⁰.  As I was coming along, our Portuguese¹¹ pilot, who had always something or other to say to make us merry, told me he would show me the greatest rarity in all the country, and that I should have this to say of China, after all the ill-humoured things that I had said of it, that I had seen one thing which was not to be seen in all the world beside.  I was very importunate¹² to know what it was; at last he told me it was a gentleman’s house built with China ware.  “Well,” says I, “are not the materials of their buildings the products of their own country, and so it is all China ware, is it not?”—“No, no,” says he, “I mean it is a house all made of China ware, such as you call it in England, or as it is called in our country, porcelain¹³.”—“Well,” says I, “such a thing may be; how big is it?  Can we carry it in a box upon a camel?  If we can we will buy it.”—“Upon a camel!” says the old pilot, holding up both his hands; “why, there is a family of thirty people lives in it.”
 
I was then curious, indeed, to see it; and when I came to it, it was nothing but this: it was a timber house, or a house built, as we call it in England, with lath and plaster, but all this plastering was really China ware—that is to say, it was plastered with the earth that makes China ware.  The outside, which the sun shone hot upon, was glazed¹⁴, and looked very well, perfectly¹⁵ white, and painted with blue figures, as the large China ware in England is painted, and hard as if it had been burnt.  As to the inside, all the walls, instead of wainscot, were lined with hardened and painted tiles, like the little square tiles we call galley-tiles in England, all made of the finest china, and the figures exceeding fine indeed, with extraordinary variety of colours, mixed with gold, many tiles making but one figure, but joined so artificially, the mortar¹⁶ being made of the same earth, that it was very hard to see where the tiles met.  The floors of the rooms were of the same composition, and as hard as the earthen floors we have in use in several parts of England; as hard as stone, and smooth, but not burnt and painted, except some smaller rooms, like closets, which were all, as it were, paved with the same tile; the ceiling and all the plastering work in the whole house were of the same earth; and, after all, the roof was covered with tiles of the same, but of a deep shining black.  This was a China warehouse¹⁷ indeed, truly and literally¹⁸ to be called so, and had I not been upon the journey, I could have stayed some days to see and examine the particulars of it.  They told me there were fountains and fishponds in the garden, all paved on the bottom and sides with the same; and fine statues set up in rows on the walks, entirely¹⁹ formed of the porcelain earth, burnt whole.
 
As this is one of the singularities of China, so they may be allowed to excel in it; but I am very sure they excel in their accounts of it; for they told me such incredible things of their performance in crockery-ware, for such it is, that I care not to relate, as knowing it could not be true.  They told me, in particular, of one workman that made a ship with all its tackle and masts and sails in earthenware²⁰, big enough to carry fifty men.  If they had told me he launched it, and made a voyage to Japan in it, I might have said something to it indeed; but as it was, I knew the whole of the story, which was, in short, that the fellow lied: so I smiled, and said nothing to it.  This odd sight kept me two hours behind the caravan⁷, for which the leader of it for the day fined me about the value of three shillings; and told me if it had been three days’ journey without the wall, as it was three days’ within, he must have fined me four times as much, and made me ask pardon the next council-day.  I promised to be more orderly; and, indeed, I found afterwards the orders made for keeping all together were absolutely necessary for our common safety.
 
In two days more we passed the great China wall, made for a fortification against the Tartars: and a very great work it is, going over hills and mountains in an endless track, where the rocks are impassable, and the precipices²² such as no enemy could possibly enter, or indeed climb up, or where, if they did, no wall could hinder them.  They tell us its length is near a thousand English miles, but that the country is five hundred in a straight measured line, which the wall bounds without measuring the windings²³ and turnings it takes; it is about four fathoms²⁴ high, and as many thick in some places.
 
I stood still an hour or thereabouts without trespassing²⁵ on our orders (for so long the caravan was in passing the gate), to look at it on every side, near and far off; I mean what was within my view: and the guide, who had been extolling²⁶ it for the wonder of the world, was mighty²⁷ eager to hear my opinion of it.  I told him it was a most excellent thing to keep out the Tartars; which he happened not to understand as I meant it and so took it for a compliment; but the old pilot laughed!  “Oh, Seignior Inglese,” says he, “you speak in colours.”—“In colours!” said I; “what do you mean by that?”—“Why, you speak what looks white this way and black that way—gay one way and dull another.  You tell him it is a good wall to keep out Tartars; you tell me by that it is good for nothing but to keep out Tartars.  I understand you, Seignior Inglese, I understand you; but Seignior Chinese understood you his own way.”—“Well,” says I, “do you think it would stand out an army of our country people, with a good train of artillery²⁹; or our engineers, with two companies of miners?  Would not they batter³⁰ it down in ten days, that an army might enter in battalia; or blow it up in the air, foundation and all, that there should be no sign of it left?”—“Ay, ay,” says he, “I know that.”  The Chinese wanted mightily³¹ to know what I said to the pilot, and I gave him leave to tell him a few days after, for we were then almost out of their country, and he was to leave us a little time after this; but when he knew what I said, he was dumb all the rest of the way, and we heard no more of his fine story of the Chinese power and greatness while he stayed.
 
After we passed this mighty nothing, called a wall, something like the Picts’ walls so famous in Northumberland, built by the Romans, we began to find the country thinly inhabited, and the people rather confined to live in fortified³² towns, as being subject to the inroads and depredations³³ of the Tartars, who rob in great armies, and therefore are not to be resisted by the naked inhabitants of an open country.  And here I began to find the necessity of keeping together in a caravan as we travelled, for we saw several troops of Tartars roving about; but when I came to see them distinctly, I wondered more that the Chinese empire could be conquered by such contemptible³⁴ fellows; for they are a mere³⁵ horde³⁶ of wild fellows, keeping no order and understanding no discipline or manner of it.  Their horses are poor lean creatures, taught nothing, and fit for nothing; and this we found the first day we saw them, which............