Coblence is situated at the extremity of a level plain watered by the Moselle and Rhine. It is placed in the angle formed by the junction of those two rivers. Immediately opposite to the town is the strong fortress of Ehrenbreitstein, which has the reputation of being impregnable: it is much doubted whether this fortress would be found as strong as it is represented to be, [270]now the art of gunnery has been so much improved; yet it would certainly be a formidable obstacle to an attacking army. Coblence itself is strongly fortified, and, together with Ehrenbreitstein, is garrisoned by about 4000 men. Every year troops are gathered from other garrisons to the neighbourhood of Coblence, where they encamp and rehearse all sorts of field evolutions.

During the earliest period of the Roman Empire a castle was built by the Romans at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle. This fortress fell into the hands of the Franks towards the end of the fifth century. Gradually a town arose round the fortress, till the space between the rivers was filled; then two suburbs were built, one called Thal Coblenz, or Coblence in the Valley—this was on the right bank of the Rhine; the other, on the left bank of the Moselle, was called Klein (little) Coblenz.

After a time the town passed into the possession of the Electors of Trèves, and they built a palace and fortified it.

The bridge over the Moselle is of Roman origin; but it has frequently been repaired and partially rebuilt, being subject to great pressure from the breaking up of the ice on the Moselle, when parts of Coblence are frequently inundated.

Ehrenbreitstein is built on the site of an ancient Roman tower, which is described in old maps as “Turris adversus Germaniam Magnam.” The Archbishops of Trèves built a palace under the walls of this [271]castle, which was by that time much enlarged and strengthened. The palace still remains.

During the Thirty Years’ War, the garrison of Ehrenbreitstein was reduced to such straits for provisions, that on one occasion, at a banquet given by the General Commanding to his officers, there were served up to table sixteen mules, eight dogs, and eighty rats,—the latter delicate animals costing twenty sous each: in addition to these appetising viands, a morsel of bread was served out to each guest, the flour to make which cost one hundred florins a bushel.

At the French Revolution, Coblence became the capital of the Department of the Rhine and Moselle; in 1814 it was given to Prussia, and is now the capital of the Rhenish Provinces of Prussia, and the seat of the Government of those Provinces.

Old Coblence was built along the right bank of the Moselle; and its formerly important suburb of Little Coblence formed with it one town, immediately connected by the bridge. This bridge was entirely rebuilt by the celebrated Elector Baldwin of Trèves. It is recorded of him, that he, by his influence, procured the election of his brother Henry to the Imperial throne; and after his brother’s death he placed the crown on the head of the Duke of Bavaria: his nephew also was raised to the throne of Bohemia. He travelled into Italy with the Emperor, and was on that occasion surrounded by all the chivalry of the Moselle, the Counts of Elz, Von der Leyen, &c. &c.; in short, he seems to have equalled in power and magnificence any prince [272]of the age. Yet he was outwitted by Lauretta of Sponheim.

The bridge was formerly the great centre of gaiety, and the place most resorted to for exercise and fresh air. Here, on the first day of the new year, came the chief magistrate to receive tribute from the different communities that owed him allegiance. The Seigneurs presented cheeses or a couple of fowls; the Religieuses of Oberwerth a cake, and those of the Chartreuse a quarter of a hundred of eggs.

On the occasion of this ceremony the senators and magistrates were allowed to snowball each other; but the bailiffs of the Elector were not permitted to take a part in this exercise.

A reunion of the authorities also took place on the bridge on the eve of St. Walpurgis. Then the two burgomasters of Coblence and Little Coblence arrived, each with a bouquet of lilies freshly gathered. Lavender and thyme that had been plucked in the woods near Coblence were also made into bouquets and presented to the wives and daughters of the principal citizens.

The Walpurgis eve was, according to the old stories, the great day when the witches assembled from all parts, and rode abroad on the wind, or else bestrode their housewifely brooms. On one of the annual reunions upon the bridge a handsome and well-dressed cavalier, holding a bouquet of the fairest flowers in his hand, was seen wending his way through the crowd. The eyes of all the young maidens were turned with [273]admiring glances upon the cavalier’s handsome face, and great was the jealousy when he stopped before Lieschen, and presented his bouquet to her. The plaited tails of their hair became more and more agitated, and meaning looks were exchanged as Lieschen (who, the men said, was lovely, but who, the girls said, was an impudent thing) was led by the hand through the crowd, her conductor being the handsome young stranger; but all their jealousy turned into pity when, the next morning, it was found that Lieschen had vanished. Doubtless the young man was a spirit of evil, who had carried her off to destruction.

On the day of the dedication of the Church all the young people danced on the bridge.

The air inhaled on this bridge was held to be of peculiar salubrity, and an old locksmith, who lived to the age of 120, considered that the length of his life was entirely owing to his daily walk on the bridge; and he believed that he might have lived to a much greater age had not he been prevented one day from taking his accustomed exercise.
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LEGEND OF THE MOSELLE BRIDGE.

A youth stood leaning on the parapet of the Moselle Bridge. He thought of the numerous stories then rife in those regions, in which water-spirits played so conspicuous a part. As he silently gazed, and his young heart yearned for something to love—something more [274]pure and ethereal than the Sannchens and Lisbeths of every-day life, a gentle Spirit arose from the waters—a Spirit of purity raised by the Spirit of Love.

“Dreamer,” said the pure Spirit of Water, “day after day and night after night I hear thy sighs and complaints. Thy tears fall down into the stream, and cause me to pity thee. Nay more, I could love thy sad heart were I a mortal; but, unlike thee, my poor youth, I live for ever. I was old when thy fathers were young, and young shall I be when thou art departed.”

Then broke forth the youth:—“Ever young, ever glorious art thou! Receive but my love, and I shall be contented to pass from my mortal existence at once.”

“Nay,” gravely replied the pure Spirit, “thou thinkest alone of thy love and thy pleasure; know this for thy good,—all like thee of mortal race must perform the duties of their lives before their great reward is gained. If then thou truly lovest me, and earnestly fulfillest the work appointed thee to do, faithfully and steadfastly pursuing the straight path in life, then will I, when thy years are full, receive thee in my arms, for so only canst thou gain perpetual youth and be a fit associate for even such as I, who am but a handmaiden of the Queen Moselle, who herself is but one of the lesser Spirits of the Universe. Go, and be just, and honourable, and brave; be kind to all, and liberal to the poor; so shalt thou gain immortal youth and me.” [275]

The Spirit was gone, and the bright waves shone in the moonlight; the youth returned, silent and thoughtful, towards the city.

*   *   *

Year after year went by, and every night a solitary figure appeared at the same spot on the bridge, until the snows of a century crowned the brows of him who was still in heart but a youth; then his radiant bride appeared, and the pure-hearted man was wafted away on the bosom of the pure Water Spirit.

Still on the waters live spirits, beautiful and pure as that which appeared to the youth, but as yet no other mortal has been found who, at his death, could claim by his own spotless life an immortal bride. And if it is the case that scarce one is sinless enough to claim even a handmaiden among spirits, who shall take his place with those higher hosts that fill the sky? Who shall dare aspire to the central heaven itself?

The Germans of the present time are quite as much given to amusement as their forefathers were; on every possible occasion they indulge in pic-nics, dances, fairs, processions, and festivals of all sorts. Christmas and New-year’s Days are perhaps the greatest holidays in the year, but Carnival time is also universally kept as a fête, the same as in Italy.

In summer, excursions into the country are the most favourite amusements; people of all classes, [276]high and low alike, indulge in these excursions. Some of the villages on the Moselle are particularly frequented by the people of Coblence. Güls, Moselweiss, and Lay are often crowded with pleasure-seekers of the poorer class, while the richer are met with at much greater distances; crowned with wreaths, and laughing and singing, these latter seem to pass very merry days in the woods, exploring old castles, &c. Certainly our pic-nics in England are but dull affairs in comparison, but then our belles are on such occasions better dressed, and it might hurt their fine clothes if they went romping about as the German girls do; besides, the impropriety would be shocking.

Coblence is, on the whole, an uninteresting town; it has all the disadvantage of being a garrison without any particular redeeming point; the rivers are quite shut out from the town by the fortifications, and can only be seen by going on to the bridges: however, the hotels, which are very good, command views of the Rhine from their windows; and the Belle Vue may be especially mentioned, as affording most animated scenes to those who occupy its apartments, it being just opposite to the bridge of boats, where promenaders sun themselves and military are always crossing and recrossing.

Occasionally the bridge of boats is opened, and steamers, each tugging a fleet of from two to six, or even seven vessels, beat up the stream; or else a gigantic floating village of wood comes gliding down, quite filling the aperture, and looking as if it would [277]carry away the whole bridge. It is wonderful the skill with which these unwieldy rafts are managed.

In the town there are good shops, but not much outward display; and though, as we have mentioned, not in itself very interesting, yet there are many and beautiful excursions to be made from it: the society is said to be agreeable.

Near the junction of the rivers is the church of Saint Castor; it stands in a large open space, and is a stately and interesting building: it contains a handsome monument to one of the Electors of Trèves.

The palace is a large house, not remarkable in any way; in it is a chapel where English service is performed, as there are a good many English constantly residing here, as well as the swarms of summer visitors. Most of the more important buildings are near the Moselle Bridge, or between it and the church of Saint Castor; that is to say, they are in the old part of the town.

Near the Castor Church, in the large square, is the monument erected by the French to commemorate their invasion of Russia. To the inscription recording the object of raising the monument, the Russian General who in his turn invaded the Rhine provinces, added—

“Vu et approuvé par nous,

Commandant Russe de la Ville de Coblence.

“Janvier 1ère, 1814.”

The monument is a remarkably ugly lump of stone, which perhaps was meant for a fountain, but there is no water. [278]

Very few historical associations belong to Coblence, and those that do are not particularly interesting, so we will turn back to the legends.
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LEGEND OF MARIAHILF.1

Near the Moselle Bridge stood a chapel, piously dedicated to the Mother of God and her Son. Within the chapel were images of both Mother and Son.

Here resorted many pilgrims, especially those who suffered under bodily infirmities: among others came a certain man who was paralytic, and given over to death by his physicians. With great labour and trouble he contrived to totter into the chapel by the aid of his staff.

The pilgrims were singing a hymn, in which the words, “Help us,............