Still surrounded by very high hills, the course of our river winds onwards past Starkenburg, from which the Countess pounced down on the crafty Archbishop. The pathway to Enkirch extends, under fruit-trees, a little way inland, to where the ferry-boat crosses the river.

Passing from Bertrich to Traben one day, we heard, on arriving near Enkirch, sounds of music and [174]lowing of cattle. People in shoals, too, were crossing the river, filling the boats of all sizes. We found it was Fair-day in Enkirch, so, joining a party of brightly-dressed girls, we went over to see all “the fun of the Fair.”

At these Kermes, or Fairs, the amusements are much like those on similar festivals in England. Goods of all sorts are exposed in little old booths, round which the gossiping purchasers stand. Ribbons and gingerbread, shawls, pottery, and cheap dresses, are the principal objects of purchase; also spikes for the back of the hair of unmarried girls, and little embroidered pieces of velvet or cloth.

The amusements consist chiefly in dancing and drinking; there are not many shows, but “the round-about” plays its full part, and even women and men ride, as well as the children.

The dancing is carried on with the greatest possible spirit; in fact, it seems a matter of duty. The “Schottische,” or something very much like it, seems to be the favourite dance; but waltzing in the old style has many adherents.

The girls are smartly dressed, and very lively and pleasant; they and their lovers drink freely of the light wine of the country, and grow a little more lively as the day turns into night.

Strangers at these places are considered as part of the show, and stared at amazingly; but when addressed, the peasants are perfectly civil, and seem glad to talk: they are, for the most part, well informed,—[175]far more so than farm-labourers in England usually are.

When the Kermes is over, the holiday-makers in groups embark in their boats, or walk merrily home, often singing in parts as they go. Some of the men take rather more wine than is good for them, but a quarrel very seldom occurs.
Enkirch.

Enkirch.

Enkirch is a small town of 2000 inhabitants, containing nothing remarkable. A great deal of wine is made near there, and its situation is very agreeable; surrounded as it is by hills, the summer showers often break over it, cooling the air, and freshening the sail. [176]

From Enkirch a very pleasant path leads us to Entersburg, famous for the legend of
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THE VALLEY OF HUSBANDS.

On the heights over the little hamlet of Burg are still to be seen some remnants of an old castle. Here a Robber-Knight once had his residence. This Knight made it his profession to capture all travellers, and carry them off to his dungeon, from which they were only released on procuring a very large ransom.

For a long time this trade was most prosperously carried on, but at length (success perhaps begetting envy, as usual,) a certain nobleman vowed vengeance on the depredator, and swore to destroy him and his castle. For this purpose he set out with a large force, and surrounded the Robber-Knight’s tower.

The robbers fought furiously, yet were forced to retreat into their fort by the superior force of the nobleman.

The chief then being short of provisions, consulted his wife (as all prudent men should), and she concocted a plan. The lady then mounted the tower, and addressing the nobleman, said that the stronghold should be given up if he would allow her to carry out a bundle of whatever she wished. To this modest request the besieger readily gave his assent, and the lady came forth with a heavy bundle placed in a basket, which she carried with difficulty.

The besiegers allowed her to pass, and rushed [177]into the fort, slaying the robbers who there were collected.

The lady and bundle were all that escaped; and so this courageous and sharp-witted woman saved the life of her husband.

The valley is still called the Manne-thal, or Valley of Husbands.

Below Burg, on the left bank, is Reil, most charmingly snuggled in trees; a road from it leads up to the forest, through which passes a good road to Alf. This road keeps along the crest of the hill, past the neck of the Marienburg promontory, then descends into Alf.

The views from this road are superb. Through the openings of oak-trees are seen distant landscapes, that, sleeping in sunshine, seem gems to adorn the green girdle which Nature binds round the earth.

The fairy Moselle seems tranquilly sleeping through noontide, while in the heavens the fleecy white clouds are protecting our gentle river from harm; and their brightness reflected in her, seems a sweet dream sent from above, which gladdens the heart of the sleeper.

There is a dip in the long neck of land that leads towards Zell, which enables us to see a distant reach of our river; thus, standing quite still, three different windings are seen, and by taking a very few paces, a fourth (beyond Alf) comes in view. [178]

Comparisons are more or less odious, as every one knows, and has written when young; but, considering the raptures in which people annually indulge on the Rhine, it is, to say the least of it, wonderful that scarcely any visit our lovely river, which certainly will not suffer by being compared with the grander and manlier stream.

The Convent of Marienburg dates from the twelfth century. Owing to its situation, it was always sought by conflicting parties as a strong post in war-time, which so interfered with its usefulness as a place of repose for the weary in mind, that Pope Leo X. had it abolished, and the twelve canonesses received each a pension of twenty-five florins of gold, a half tun of wine, and three sacks of corn; so with these goods of the world they contented themselves for the loss of their convent.

At this present time the ruins of the convent and church are still standing, and within them an inn and a bright little garden, where refreshments are served by the landlady and her two daughters: the father is one of the Foresters, and his house is adorned with arms of all sorts. In the garden is a large room, surrounded with spoils of the chase, and stuffed animals of all sorts and sizes. The young ladies play the guitar and sing national songs, so a day may be pleasantly spent there in the old German style.

There is a little chapel still fitted up; as they open the door the interior is gloomily seen, but a window [179]throws a strong light on a misshapen image of some cadaverous saint. The effect is quite startling, especially if you have been listening to the tales of the hermits and ghosts who delighted to live and to wander here. Here is one of the stories, called
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THE PALE NUN.

Over-persuaded by the Abbess and sisters,............