Bull-fighting—Mexican etiquette—The police department and its difficulties—Treatment of habitual criminals—The army.

There is one kind of bull-fighting that I have often attended and thoroughly enjoyed. In the first act they bring out a young bull, or steer, which is then roped and thrown, and a thick rope is put around its body just behind its forelegs. A man mounts it while it is on the ground (barebacked) and holds on to this rope. The bull is then allowed to get up, and the idea is to see how long the rider can stick on. I have seen many horses buck, but a fighting bull can give a horse points, as he has some steps that are entirely his own, and few men stay with him very long. When the rider is thrown, others rush in with capas (red capes) and attract the bull away from his fallen foe before he can do any damage. In the next act they set up a sort of a "giant’s stride" right in front of the bull-chute. A bull is then turned in, and when he charges the man makes a run, swings out, and over the bull. It is certainly exciting and 220pretty risky work. One time I was there the bull charged, and as the man started for him and sailed up into the air, the bull stopped in astonishment right in the man’s descending course. There was nothing for it, so the man stiffened himself, stuck out his feet, and landed square on the side of the bull’s head, turning him head over heels. They both got on their feet about the same time, and the bull chased the man round the pole so rapidly that it was some time ere he could make use of his rope to swing again.

Another form in which they do this act is using a pole and pole-vaulting over the charging bull. In the next act they have an enormous Mexican, all padded out like an American football player. The bull is turned in (generally a young two-year-old), and he plays with it for a while with the capa, till he gets his distance; then he suddenly lunges forward and, with his chest against the bull’s horns, leans over and grabs the animal round the neck. Then there is a tussle indeed, but the man seems easily to hold his own, and finally, when he has tired the bull, he lies down on his back, pulling the bull’s head down with him, and, taking off his hat, waves it at the crowd. This also is not so easy as it sounds, and is sometimes dangerous, for I once saw a young bull scratch with his hind-legs like a cat, and he was not long in pulling 221the stuffing off his opponent. He probably would have killed the man, but assistants are always ready, and they dashed in and pulled the bull off by main strength. In other cases, when the man is through his act he suddenly releases the bull, springs to one side, and waves the capa in the bull’s face. The show ends with acrobatic and other performances, and is well worth seeing. On one occasion they let any of the public who wished to do so go in and play with the bull; when the bugle blew about one hundred peons jumped into the ring with their red blankets, and the fun was furious for a short time, as the bull would charge one and then another, finally tossing two or three of them who could not get out of his way, but without serious consequences. Most Mexicans of the lower classes are would-be bull-fighters, and the great game amongst the Mexican children is “bull-fighting”; one boy represents the bull and the others the matadores, picadores, &c., and when the bull pokes one of the others in the ribs he is supposed to be out. An American lady here had a very cross Jersey bull in a corral. Some lads from sixteen to eighteen years were baiting him, but, as they were not experts, he killed three of them before they decided to leave him alone.

Mexicans in some ways are very polite and look 222upon Americans as boors; and truly a great many of them are so, especially the tourists, whom I have seen going into the churches here with their cameras, when mass was being said, and other things equally outrageous. The Mexican takes off his hat to his gentlemen friends as well as to the ladies; he shakes hands with everybody (whether known to him or not) when entering or leaving an office, and does not put on his hat till he leaves the building; he will generally give you the inside of the side-walk if he meets you on the street (always to a lady). I have seen two of them arguing for quite a while on meeting as to who was to give the other the inside. All this to his men acquaintances; on the other hand, he will stare in the rudest way at any pretty woman he may meet in the street or in a street-car, and I have often been tempted to punch their heads. He will stand on the street-corner with a knot of friends taking up the whole side-walk and making everybody who passes walk round them in the street. Their ideas of politeness are so contradictory that I have never been quite able to make them out. When they have a row it is considered quite gentlemanly to beat your opponent over the head and shoulders with your cane, but to strike him with your fist is a deadly insult. The following are a few of the main rules of Mexican etiquette, 223for the benefit of those who might visit this country: Ladies do not attend funerals. Children kiss the hands of their parents. The hostess is served first at a Mexican table. The bridegroom purchases his bride’s trousseau. Women friends kiss on both cheeks when greeting or taking leave. Gentlemen bow first when passing lady acquaintances in the street. The sofa is the seat of honour, and a guest waits to be invited to occupy it. Men and women in the same social circles call each other by their first names. When a Mexican speaks to you of his home he refers to it as “your house.” When you move into a new locality, it is your duty to make the first neighbourhood calls. When friends pass each other in the street without stopping they say adios (good-bye). Young ladies do not receive calls from young men, and are not escorted to entertainments by them. Daily inquiry is made for a sick friend, and cards are left, or the name written in a book, with the porter. Dinner calls are not customary, but upon rising from the table the guest thanks his host for the entertainment. Mexican gentlemen remove their hats as scrupulously on entering a business office as in a private residence. If in riding costume one must remov............