ENCAMP AT LAKATAKOORA WITHOUT THE CARAVAN—DESCRIPTION OF VILLAGE—BASé LADIES VISIT ME ERE I GET OUT OF BED—THEY RECEIVE PRESENTS AND ARE VERY AMUSING—ENORMOUS NUMBERS OF DOVES AND SAND-GROUSE—ABOOSALAL TO SOGODA—BOA-CONSTRICTOR KILLED—AN UNPLEASANT JOURNEY, WE ALL GET SEPARATED—ARRIVE AT HEIKOTA AGAIN.

March 23rd.—Leaving Khor-Maiatah at 8.45 a.m., we had an exceptionally unpleasant day of it. We had seen the last of that fine river, the Tacazze; now if water was wanted it could only be obtained by digging a few feet in the sandy river-beds. We travelled over mountains, plains, valleys, river-beds, and nearly all day through a forest of those horrid mimosas, finally arriving at Lakatakoora, in the Basé country, at 7 p.m., without the caravan. At about 11 p.m. Cheriff, with the canteen, Ali the cook, and a few only of the camels arrived.

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As we had not tasted food since about 1 p.m., Cheriff’s canteen was soon surrounded by us, and the contents of it cleared out in a very short time. Our dinner (which was a scanty one this time) did not appear until 12.30 a.m. Whilst this was being prepared by Ali we fired off rifles, burnt blue lights, and lighted a beacon fire for Suleiman with the hamlah to see where we were; but all to no purpose—they had lost their way. The moon retired for the night, and so many trees had to cut be down to enable them to come on, that at last they gave up the idea of attempting to find us, so slept out.

We also had rather a hard time of it. There was no choice of a camping-ground—there was but one. This was a large open space devoid of vegetation, but covered with a thick layer of impalpable dust, about an inch or so in thickness, infested with white ants. Fortunately our tents and bedding arrived. I did not wait for my tent to be pitched, but placed my bedding on the canvas covering of my tent on the ground, and there I managed to get through the night in a rather unsatisfactory manner. The other members of the party elected to remain up until their tents were pitched.

March 24th.—I passed a somewhat uncomfortable night amongst the white ants, lulled to sleep by the music of hy?nas, some of whom seem to[281] have been intensely amused at our situation, if one may judge from the bursts of merriment issuing from their camp, as they were evidently excited by uncontrollable fits of laughter, making the woods in the immediate neighbourhood resound by the exercise of their risible faculties.

I awoke about 6.30 a.m., but did not arise until 7. Quite near to our camp I observed on a precipitous mountain side enormous basalt rocks, some single rocks as big as a good-sized house. This was the village of Lakatakoora; and amongst these rocks, concealed from view, lived some Basé. I had not been awake long ere many of the Basé ladies, covered with beads, their eyelids and lips stained with kohl, rings in their noses and ears, and a strip of cloth around their waists, came and shook hands with me, murmuring “Mida” (good-day). Both men and women came in such increasing numbers that I decided to get up, and had to perform my toilet in their presence. They watched the whole performance with evident interest. Such a contrivance as a tooth-brush and tooth-powder elicited expressions of wonder and admiration, but a hair-brush and comb pleased them still more. Water was scarce. I therefore had to wash à la Turk. Mahoom stood by me with a salmon tin full of water, pouring out ............