IN the autumn following the end of the Franco-German war, Dr.

　　Bird and I visited all the principal battlefields. InEngland the impression was that the bloodiest battle wasfought at Gravelotte. The error was due, I believe, to ourhaving no war correspondent on the spot. Compared with thaton the plains between St. Marie and St. Privat, Gravelottewas but a cavalry skirmish. We were fortunate enough to meeta German artillery officer at St. Marie who had been in theaction, and who kindly explained the distribution of theforces. Large square mounds were scattered about the plainwhere the German dead were buried, little wooden crossesbeing stuck into them to denote the regiment they hadbelonged to. At Gravelotte we saw the dogs unearthing thebodies from the shallow graves. The officer told us he didnot think there was a family in Germany unrepresented in theplains of St. Privat.

　　It was interesting so soon after the event, to sit quietly inthe little summer-house of the Chateau de Bellevue,commanding a view of Sedan, where Bismarck and Moltke andGeneral de Wimpfen held their memorable Council. 'Unterrible homme,' says the story of the 'Debacle,' 'ce generalde Moltke, qui gagnait des batailles du fond de son cabinet acoups d'algebre.'

　　We afterwards made a walking tour through the Tyrol, and downto Venice. On our way home, while staying at Lucerne, wewent up the Rigi. Soon after leaving the Kulm, on ourdescent to the railway, which was then uncompleted, we losteach other in the mist. I did not get to Vitznau till lateat night, but luckily found a steamer just starting forLucerne. The cabin was crammed with German students, eachone smoking his pipe and roaring choruses to alternatesingers. All of a sudden, those who were on their legs wereknocked off them. The panic was instantaneous, for every oneof us knew it was a collision. But the immediate peril wasin the rush for the deck. Violent with terror, rough bynature, and full of beer, these wild young savages wereformidable to themselves and others. Having arrived late, Ihad not got further than the cabin door, and was up thecompanion ladder at a bound. It was pitch dark, and piteousscreams came up from the surrounding waters. At first it wasimpossible to guess what had happened. Were we rammed, orwere we rammers? I pulled off my coats ready for a swim.

　　But it soon became apparent that we had run into and sunkanother boat.

　　The next morning the doctor and I went on to England. A weekafter I took up the 'Illustrated News.' There was an accountof the accident, with an illustration of the cabin of thesunken boat. The bodies of passengers were depicted as thedivers had found them.

　　On the very day the peace was signed I chanced to call on SirAnthony Rothschild in New Court. He took me across the courtto see his brother Lionel, the head of the firm. Sir Anthonybowed before him as though the great man were Plutus himself.

　　He sat at a table alone, not in his own room, but in theimmense counting-room, surrounded by a brigade of clerks.

　　This was my first introduction to him. He took no notice ofhis brother, but received me as Napoleon received theemperors and kings at Erfurt - in other words, as he wouldhave received his slippers from his valet, or as he didreceive the telegrams which were handed to him at the rate ofabout one a minute.

　　The King............