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Chapter 11 THE MAN-MILLINER.
  11Gaston de Gandelu was much surprised at finding that Andre should beignorant of the existence of Van Klopen, the best-known man in Paris.

To assure oneself of this, it was only necessary to glance at hiscirculars, which were ornamented with the representations of medalswon at all sorts of exhibitions in different quarters of the world,together with various decorations received from foreign potentates.

One had been presented to him by the Queen of Spain, while he had adiploma appointing him the supplier to the Court of the Czar. Thegreat Van Klopen was not an Alsatian, as was generally supposed, but astout, handsome Dutchman, who, in the year 1850, had been a tailor inhis small native town, and manufactured in cloth, purchased on credit,the long waistcoats and miraculous coats worn by the wealthy citizensof Rotterdam. Van Klopen, however, was not successful in his business,and was compelled to close his shop and abscond from his creditors. Hetook refuge in Paris, where he seemed likely to die of hunger. One dayover a magnificent establishment in the Rue de Grammont appeared asignboard with the name of Van Klopen, dressmaker, and in thethousands of handbills distributed with the utmost profusion, hecalled himself the "Regenerator of Fashion." This was an idea thatwould have never originated in the brain of the phlegmatic Dutchman,and whence came the funds to carry on the business? On this point hewas discreetly silent. The enterprise was at first far from a success,for during nearly a month Paris almost split its sides laughing at theabsurd pretensions of the self-dubbed "Regenerator of Fashion." VanKlopen bent before the storm he had aroused, and in due time hisadvertisements brought him two customers, who were the first to blowthe trumpet of his fame. One was the Duchess de Suirmeuse, a verygreat lady indeed, and renowned for her eccentricities and extravagantmanner, while the other was an example of another class being no lessthan the celebrated Jennie Fancy, who was at that time under theprotection of the Count de Tremouselle; and for these two Van Klopeninvented such dresses as had never been seen before. From this momenthis success was certain; indeed, it was stupendous, and Parisresounded with his praises. Now he has achieved a world-widereputation, and has nothing to fear from the attacks of his rivals. Hewould not execute orders for every one, saying that he must pick andchoose his customers, and he did so, excising the names of such as hedid not think would add to his reputation. Rank and wealth disputedthe honor of being his customers. The haughtiest dames did not shrinkfrom entrusting to him secrets of form and figure, which they even hidfrom their husbands. They endured without shrinking the touch of hiscoarse hands as he measured them. He was the rage, and his showroomswere a species of neutral ground, where women of all circles ofsociety met and examined each other. The Duchess of --- did not shrinkfrom being in the same room with the celebrated woman for whom theBaron de --- had blown out the few brains he possessed. Perhaps theDuchess thought that by employing the same costumier, she might alsogain some of the venal beauteous attractions. Mademoiselle D---, ofthe Gymnase Theatre, who was well known to earn just one thousandfrancs per annum, took a delight in astonishing the haughty ladies offashion by the reckless extravagance of her orders. Van Klopen, whowas a born diplomatist, distributed his favors between his differentcustomers; consequently he was termed the most charming and angelic ofmen. Many a time had he heard the most aristocratic lips let fall thewords, "I shall die, Van Klopen, if my dress is not ready." On theevenings of the most aristocratic balls a long line of carriagesblocked up the road in front of his establishment, and the finestwomen in Paris crowded the showrooms for a word of approval from him.

He gave credit to approved customers, and also, it was whispered, lentmoney to them. But woe to the woman who permitted herself to beentrapped in the snare of credit that he laid for her; for the womanwho owed him a bill was practically lost, never knowing to what depthsshe might be degraded to obtain the money to settle her account. Itwas not surprising that such sudden prosperity should have turned VanKlopen's head. He was stout and ruddy, impudent, vain, and cynical.

His admirers said that he was witty.

It was to this man's establishment that Mascarin conducted Paul aftera sumptuous breakfast at Philipe's.

It is necessary to give a slight description of Van Klopen'sestablishment. Carpets of the most expensive description covered thestairs to his door on the first floor, at which stood the liveriedmenials resplendent in gold lace and scarlet. As soon as Mascarin madehis appearance, one of these gorgeous creatures hastened to him andsaid, "M. Van Klopen is just now engaged with the Princess Korasoff,but as soon as he hears of your arrival he will manage to get rid ofher. Will you wait for him in his private room?"But Mascarin answered,--"We are in no hurry, and may as well wait in the public room with theother customers. Are there many of them?""There are about a dozen ladies, sir.""Good; I am sure that they will amuse me."And, without wasting any more words, Mascarin opened a door which ledinto a magnificent drawing-room, decorated in very florid style. Thepaper on the walls almost disappeared beneath a variety of watercolorsketches, representing ladies in every possible style of costume. Eachpicture had an explanatory note beneath it, such as "Costume of Mde.

de C--- for a dinner at the Russian Ambassador's," "Ball costume ofthe Marchioness de V--- for a ball at the Hotel de Ville," etc.

Paul, who was a little nervous at finding himself among such splendor,hesitated in the doorway; but Mascarin seized his young friend by thearm, and, as he drew him to a settee, whispered in his ear,--"Keep your eyes about you; the heiress is here."The ladies were at first a little surprised at this invasion of theroom by the male element, but Paul's extreme beauty soon attractedtheir attention. The hum of conversation ceased, and Paul'sembarrassment increased as he found a battery of twelve pairs of eyesdirected full upon him.

Mascarin, however, was quite at his ease, and upon his entrance hadmade a graceful though rather old-fashioned bow to the fair inmates ofthe room. His coolness was partly due to the contempt he felt for thehuman race in general, and also to his colored glasses, which hid theexpression of his countenance. When he saw that Paul still kept hiseyes on the ground, he tapped him gently on the arm.

"Is this the first time you ever saw well-dressed women? Surely youare not afraid of them. Look to the right," continued Mascarin, "andyou will see the heiress."A young girl, not more than eighteen, was seated near one of thewindows. She was not perhaps so beautiful as Mascarin had described,but her face was a very striking one nevertheless. She was slight andgood-looking, with the clear complexion of a brunette. Her featureswere not perhaps very regular, but her glossy black hair was a beautyin itself. She had a pair of dark, melting eyes, and her wide, highforehead showed that she was gifted with great intelligence. There wasan air of restrained voluptuousness about her, and she seemed the veryembodiment of passion.

Paul felt insensibly attracted toward her. Their eyes met, and bothstarted at the same moment. Paul was fascinated in an instant, and thegirl's emotion was so evident that she turned aside her head toconceal it.

The babel had now commenced again, and general attention was beingpaid to a lady who was enthusiastically describing the last newcostume which had made its appearance in the Bois de Boulogue.

"It was simply miraculous," said she; "a real triumph of Van Klopen'sart. The ladies of a certain class are furious, and Henry deCroisenois tells me that Jenny Fancy absolutely shed tears of rage.

Imagine three green skirts of different shades, each draped----"Mascarin, however, only paid attention to Paul and the young girl, anda sarcastic smile curled his lips.

"What do you think of her?" asked he.

"She is adorable!" answered Paul, enthusiastically.

"And immensely wealthy.""I should fall at her feet if she had not a sou."Mascarin gave a little cough, and adjusted his glasses.

"Should you, my lad?" said he to himself; "whether your admiration isfor the girl or her money, you are in my grip."Then he added, aloud,--"Would you not like to know her name?""Tell me, I entreat you.""Flavia."Paul was in the seventh heaven, and now boldly turned his eyes on thegirl, forgetting that owing to the numerous mirrors, she could see hisevery movement.

The door was at this moment opened quietly, and Van Klopen appeared onthe threshold. He was about forty-four, and too stout for his height.

His red, pimply face had an expression upon it of extreme insolence,and his accent was thoroughly Dutch. He was dressed in a ruby velvetdressing-gown, with a cravat with lace ends. A huge cluster-diamondring blazed on his coarse, red hand.

"Who is the next one?" asked he, rudely.

The lady who had been talking so volubly rose to her feet, but thetailor cut her short, for catching sight of Mascarin, he crossed theroom, and greeted him with the utmost cordiality.

"What!" said he; "is it you that I have been keeping waiting? Praypardon me. Pray go into my private room; and this gentleman is withyou? Do me the favor, sir, to come with us."He was about to follow his guests, when one of the ladies startedforward.

"One word with you, sir, for goodness sake!" cried she.

Van Klopen turned sharply upon her.

"What is the matter?" asked he.

"My bill for three thousand francs falls due to-morrow.""Very likely.""But I can't meet it.""That is not my affair.""I have come to beg you will renew it for two months, or say onemonth, on whatever terms you like.""In two months," answered the man brutally, "you will be no more ableto pay than you are to-day. If you can't pay it, it will be noted.""Merciful powers! then my husband will learn all.""Just so; that will be what I want; for he will then have to pay me."The wretched woman grew deadly pale.

"My husband will pay you," said she; "but I shall be lost.""That is not my lookout. I have partners whose interests I have toconsult.""Do not say that, sir! He has paid my debts once, and if he should beangry and take my children from me--Dear M. Van Klopen, be merciful!"She wrung her hands, and the tears coursed down her cheeks; but thetailor was perfectly unmoved.

"When a woman has a family of children, one ought to have in aneedlewoman by the hour."She did not desist from her efforts to soften him, and, seizing hishand, strove to carry it to her lips.

"Ah! I shall never dare to go home," wailed she; "never have thecourage to tell my husband.""If you are afraid of your own husband, go to some one else's," saidhe roughly; and tearing himself from her, he followed Mascarin andPaul.

"Did you hear that?" asked he, as soon as he had closed the door ofhis room with an angry slam. "These things occasionally occur, and arenot particularly pleasant."Paul looked on in disgust. If he had possessed three thousand francs,he would have given them to this unhappy woman, whose sobs he couldstill hear in the passage.

"It is most painful," remarked he.

"My dear sir," said the tailor, "you attach too much importance tothese hysterical outbursts. If you were in my place, you would soonhave to put their right value on them. As I said before, I have tolook after my own and my partners' interests. These dear creaturescare for nothing but dress; father, husband, and children are asnothing in comparison. You cannot imagine what a woman will do inorder to get a new dress, in which to outshine her rival. They onlytalk of their families when they are called on to pay up."Paul still continued to plead for some money for the poor lady, andthe discussion was getting so warm that Mascarin felt bound tointerfere.

"Perhaps," said he, "you have been a little hard.""Pooh," returned the tailor; "I know my customer; and to-morrow myaccount will be settled, and I know very well where the money willcome from. Then she will give me another order, and we shall have thewhole comedy over again. I know what I am about." And taking Mascarininto the window, he made some confidential communication, at whichthey both laughed heartily.

Paul, not wishing to appear to listen, examined the consulting-room,as Van Klopen termed it. He saw a great number of large scissors, yardmeasures, and patterns of material, and heaps of fashion plates.

By this time the two men had finished their conversation.

"I had," said Mascarin, as they returned to the fireplace, "I hadmeant to glance through the books; but you have so many customerswaiting, that I had better defer doing so.""Is that all that hinders you?" returned Van Klopen, carelessly. "Waita moment."He left the room, and in another moment his voice was heard.

"I am sorry, ladies, very sorry, on my word; but I am busy with mysilk mercer. I shall not be very long.""We will wait," returned the ladies in chorus.

"That is the way," remarked Van Klopen, as he returned to theconsulting-room. "Be civil to women, and they turn their backs on you;try and keep them off, and they run after you. If I was to put up 'noadmittance' over my door, the street would be blocked up with women.

Business has never been better," continued the tailor, producing alarge ledger. "Within the last ten days we have had in ordersamounting to eighty-seven thousand francs.""Good!" answered Mascarin; "but let us have a look at the columnheaded 'Doubtful.' ""Here you are," returned the arbiter of fashion, as he turned over theleaves. "Mademoiselle Virginie Cluhe has ordered five theatricalcostumes, two dinner, and three morning dresses.""That is a heavy order.""I wanted for that reason to consult you. She doesn't owe us much--perhaps a thousand francs or so.""That is too much, for I hear that her friend has come to grief. Donot decline the o............
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