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CHAPTER I. APPARATUS.
 Before entering into the subject of the setting of Objects for the Microscope, the student must be convinced of the necessity of cleanliness in everything relating to the use of that instrument. In no branch is this more apparent than in the preparation of objects; because a slide which would be considered perfectly clean when viewed in the ordinary way is seen to be far otherwise when magnified some hundreds of diameters; and those constant enemies, the floating particles of dust, are everywhere present, and it is only by unpleasant experience that we fully learn what cleanliness is. Any object which is to be viewed under the microscope must, of course, be supported in some way—this is now usually done by placing it upon a glass slide, which on account of the transparency has a great advantage over other substances. These “slides” are almost always made of one size, viz., three inches long by one broad, generally having the edges ground so as to remove all danger of scratching or cutting any object with which they may come in contact. The glass must be very good, else the surface will always2 present the appearance of uncleanliness and dust. This dusty look is very common amongst the cheaper kinds of slides, because they are usually “sheet” glass; but is seldom found in those of the quality known amongst dealers by the name of “patent plate.” This latter is more expensive at first, but in the end there is little difference in the cost, as so many of the cheaper slides cannot be used for delicate work if the mounted object is to be seen in perfection. These slides vary considerably in thickness; care should, therefore, be taken to sort them, so that the more delicate objects with which the higher powers are to be used maybe mounted upon the thinnest, as the light employed in the illumination is then less interfered with. To aid the microscopist in this work, a metal circle may be procured, having a number of different sized openings on the outer edge, by which the glass slides can be measured. These openings are numbered, and the slides may be separated according to these numbers; so that when mounting any object there will be no need of a long search for that glass which is best suited to it.
When fresh from the dealer’s hands, these slides are generally covered with dust, &c., which may be removed by well washing in clean rain-water; but if the impurity is obstinate, a little washing soda may be added, care being taken, however, that every trace of this is removed by subsequent waters, otherwise the crystals will afterwards form upon the surface. A clean linen cloth should be used to dry the slides, after which they may be laid by for use. Immediately, however, before being used for the reception of objects by any of the following processes, all dust must be removed by rubbing the surface with clean wash-leather or a piece of cambric, and, if needful, breathing upon it, and then using the leather or cambric until perfectly dry. Any small particles left upon the surface may generally be removed by blowing gently upon it, taking care to allow no damp to remain.
We have before said, that any object to be viewed in the3 microscope must have its support; but if this object is to be preserved, care must be taken that it is defended from the dust and other impurities. For this purpose it is necessary to use some transparent cover, the most usual at one time being a plate of mica, on account of its thinness; this substance is now, however, never used, thin glass being substituted, which answers admirably. Sometimes it is required to “take up” as little space as possible, owing to the shortness of focus of the object-glasses. It can be procured of any thickness, from one-fiftieth to one-two-hundred-and-fiftieth of an inch. On account of its want of strength it is difficult to cut, as it is very liable to “fly” from the point of the diamond. To overcome this tendency as much as possible, it must be laid upon a thicker piece, previously made wet with water, which causes the thin glass to adhere more firmly, and consequently to bear the pressure required in cutting the covers. The process of cutting being so difficult, especially with the thinner kinds, little or nothing is gained by cutting those which can be got from the dealers, as the loss and breakage is necessarily greater in the hands of an amateur. It is convenient, however, to have on hand a few larger pieces, from which unusual sizes may be cut when required.
If the pieces required are rectangular, no other apparatus will be required save a diamond and a flat rule; but if circles are wanted, a machine for that purpose should be used (of which no description is necessary here). There are, however, other contrivances which answer tolerably well. One method is, to cut out from a thick piece of cardboard a circle rather larger than the size wanted. Dr. Carpenter recommends metal rings with a piece of wire soldered on either side; and this, perhaps, is the best, as cardboard is apt to become rough at the edge when much used. A friend of mine uses thin brass plates with circles of various sizes “turned” through them, and a small raised handle placed at one end. The diamond must be passed round the inner edge, and so managed as to meet4 again in the same line, in order that the circle may be true, after which they may be readily disengaged. The sizes usually kept in stock by the dealers are one-half, five-eighths, and three-quarters inch diameter; but other sizes may be had to order.
For the information of the beginner it may be mentioned here that the price of the circles is a little more than of the squares; but this is modified in some degree by the circle being rather lighter. If appearance, however, is cared for at all, the circles look much neater upon the slides when not covered with the ornamental papers; but if these last are used (as will shortly be described) the squares are equally serviceable.
As before mentioned, the thin glass is made of various thicknesses, and the beginner will wish to know which to use. For objects requiring no higher power than the one-inch object-glass, the thicker kinds serve well enough; for the half-inch the medium thickness will be required; while, for higher powers, the thinnest covers must be used. The “test-objects” for the highest powers require to be brought so near to the object-glass that they admit of the very thinnest covering only, and are usually mounted betwixt glasses which a beginner would not be able to use without frequent breakage; but if these objects were mounted with the common covers, they would be really worthless with the powers which they require to show them satisfactorily.
It may be desirable to know how such small differences as those betwixt the various thin glass covers can be measured. For this purpose there are two or three sorts of apparatus, all, however, depending upon the same principle. The description of one, therefore, will be sufficient. Upon a small stand is a short metal lever (as it may be termed) which returns by a spring to one certain position, where it is in contact with a fixed piece of metal. At the other end this lever is connected with a “finger,” which moves round a dial like that of a watch, whereupon are figures at fixed distances. When the lever is separated from the metal5 which is stationary, the other end being connected with the “finger” of the dial, that “finger” is moved in proportion to the distance of the separation. The thin glass is, therefore, thrust betwixt the end of the lever and fixed metal, and each piece is measured by the figures on the dial in stated and accurate degrees. This kind of apparatus, however, is expensive, and when not at our command, the thin glass may be placed edgewise in the stage forceps, and measured very accurately with the micrometer.
Cleanliness with the thin glass is, perhaps, more necessary than with the slides, especially when covering objects which are to be used with a high power; but it is far more difficult to attain, on account of the liability to breakage. The usual method of cleaning these covers is as follows:—Two discs of wood, about two inches in diameter, are procured, one side of each being perfectly flat and covered with clean wash-leather. To the other side of these a small knob is firmly affixed as a handle, or where practicable the whole may be made out of a solid piece. In cleaning thin glass, it should be placed betwixt the covered sides of the discs, and may then be safely rubbed with a sufficient pressure, and so cleaned on both sides by the leather. If, however, the glass be greasy, as is sometimes the case, it must be first washed with a strong solution of potash, infusion of nut-galls, or any of the commonly used grease-removing liquids; and with some impurities water, with the addition of a few drops of strong acid, will be found very useful, but this last is not often required.
The above method of cleaning thin glass should always be used by beginners; but after some experience the hand becomes so sensitive that the above apparatus is often dispensed with, and the glasses, however thin, may be safely cleaned betwixt the fingers and thumb with a cambric handkerchief, having first slightly damped the ends of the fingers employed to obtain firm hold. When the dirt is very obstinate, breathing upon the glass greatly facilitates its removal, and the sense of touch becomes so delicate that6 the breakage is inconsiderable; but this method cannot be recommended to novices, as nothing but time spent in delicate manipulation can give the sensitiveness required.
It was before mentioned that the ordinary glass slides were sometimes worthless, especially for fine objects, from having a rough surface, which presented a dusty appearance under the microscope. This imperfection exists in some thin glass also, and it is irremediable; so that it is useless to attempt to cleanse it; nevertheless, care should be taken not to mistake dirty glass for this roughness, lest good glass be laid aside for a fault which does not really belong to it.
When any object which it is desired to mount is of considerable thickness, or will not bear pressure, it is evident that a wall must be raised around it to support the thin glass—this is usually termed a “cell.” There are various descriptions of these, according to the class of objects they are required to protect; and here may be given a description of those which are most generally used in mounting “dry” objects, leaving those required for the preservation of liquids until we come to the consideration of that mode of mounting. Many have made use of the following slides. Two pieces of hard wood of the usual size (3 in. by 1 in.), not exceeding one-sixteenth of an inch in thickness, are taken, and a hole is then drilled in the middle of one of these of the size required. The two pieces are then united by glue or other cement, and left under pressure until thoroughly dry, when the cell is fit for use. Others substitute cardboard for the lower piece of wood, which is less tedious, and is strong enough for every purpose. This class of “cell” is, of course, fitted for opaque objects only where no light is required from below; and as almost all such are better seen when on a dark background, it is usual to fix a small piece of black paper at the bottom of the cell upon which to place them. For very small objects the “grain” which all such paper has when magnified detracts a little from the merit of this background; and lately I have used7 a small piece of thin glass covered on the back with black varnish, and placed the object upon the smooth untouched side.
Another method of making these cells is as follows:—Two “punches,” similar to those used for cutting “gun-wads,” are procured, of such sizes that with the smaller may be cut out the centre of the larger, leaving a ring whose side is not less than one-eighth of an inch wide. These rings may be readily made, the only difficulty being to keep the sides parallel; but a little care will make this easy enough. For this purpose close-grained cardboard may be conveniently used. It must have a well-glazed surface, else the varnish or cement used in affixing the thin glass cover sinks into the substance, and the adherence is very imperfect. When this takes place it is easily remedied by brushing over the surface of the cardboard a strong solution of gum or isinglass; and this application, perhaps, closes also the pores of the card, and so serves a double purpose. But, of course, the gum must be perfectly dried before the ring is used.
For cardboard, gutta-percha has been substituted, but cannot be recommended, as it always becomes brittle after a certain time, never adheres to the glass with the required firmness, and its shape is altered when worked with even a little heat. Leather is often used, and is very convenient; it should be chosen, however, of a close texture, and free from oil, grease, and all those substances which are laid upon it by the “dressers.”
Rings of cardboard, &c., have been rejected by persons of great experience, because they are of such a nature that dampness can penetrate them. This fault can be almost, if not totally, removed by immersing them in some strong varnish, such as the asphalt varnish hereinafter mentioned; but they must be left long enough when affixed to the glass slide to become perfectly dry, and this will require a much longer time than at first would be supposed.
There has, however, been lately brought out what is8 termed the ivory cell. This is a ring of ivory-like substance, which may be easily and firmly fixed to the glass slide by any of the commonly-used cements, and so forms a beautiful cell for any dry objects. They are made of different sizes, and are not expensive.
Sometimes slides are used which are made by taking a thin slip of wood of the usual size (3 in. by 1 in.), in the centre of which is cut a circular hole large enough to receive the object. A piece of thin glass is fixed underneath the slide, forming a cell for the object, which may then be covered and finished like an ordinary slide. This has the advantage of serving for transparent objects for which the before-mentioned wooden slides are unsuitable. A slight modification of this plan is often used where the thickness of the objects is inconsiderable, especially with some of the Diatomace?, often termed “test-objects.” The wooden slide is cut with the central opening as above, and two pieces of thin glass are laid upon it, betwixt which the diatoms or other objects are placed, and kept in their proper position by a paper cover. This arrangement is a good one, insomuch as the very small portion of glass through which the light passes on its way to the microscope from the reflector causes the refraction or interference to be reduced to the lowest point.
A novice would naturally think the appearance of some of the slides above mentioned very slovenly and unfinished; but they are often covered with ornamental papers, which may be procured at almost every optician’s, at a cost little more than nominal, and of innumerable patterns and colours. How to use these will be described in another place.
It is very probable that a beginner would ask his friend what kind of slides he would advise him to use. Almost all those made of wood are liable to warp more or less, even when the two pieces are separate or of different kinds; those of cardboard and wood are generally free from this fault, yet the slides, being opaque, prevent the employment of9 the Lieberkuhn. To some extent glass slides, when covered with ornamental papers, are liable to the same objection, as the light is partly hindered. And sometimes the dampness from the paste, or other substance used to affix the papers, penetrates to the object, and so spoils it, though this may be rendered less frequent by first attaching the thin glass to the slide by some harder cement. Much time, however, is taken up by the labour of covering the slides, which is a matter of consideration with some. Certainly, the cost of the glass slides was formerly great; but now they are reasonable enough in this respect, so that this objection is removed. It is, therefore, well to use glass slides, except where the thin glasses are employed for tests, &c., as above. When the thin glass circles are placed upon the slides, and the edge is varnished with black or coloured rings, the appearance of finish is perfect. The trouble is much less than with most of the other methods, and the illumination of the object very slightly interfered with.
To varnish the edges of these covers, make circles of any liquid upon the glass slide, and perform any other “circular” work mentioned hereafter, the little instrument known as “Shadbolt’s turntable” is almost indispensable. It is made as follows:—At one end of a small piece of hard wood is fixed an iron pivot about one-eighth inch thick, projecting half an inch from the wood, which serves as a centre upon which a round brass table three inches in diameter revolves. On the surface of this are two springs, about one and a half inches apart, under which the slide is forced and so kept in position, whilst the central part is left open to be worked upon. The centre is marked, and two circles half an inch and one inch in diameter are usually deeply engraved upon the table to serve as guides in placing the slide, that the ring may be drawn in the right position. When the slide is placed upon the “table” underneath the springs, a camel-hair pencil is filled with the varnish, or other medium used, and applied to the surface of the glass; the10 table is then made to revolve, and a circle is consequently produced, the diameter of which it is easy to regulate.
Many objects for the microscope may be seriously injured by allowing the fingers to touch them—many more are so minute that they cannot be removed in this way at all, and often it is necessary to take from a mass of small grains, as in sand, some particular particle. To accomplish this, there are two or three contrivances recommended: one by means of split bristles, many of which will readily be found in any shaving brush when it has been well used. The bristles when pressed upon any hard surface open, and when the pressure is removed close again with a spring; but the use of these is limited. Camel-hair pencils are of great service for this and many other purposes to the microscopist. In very fine work they are sometimes required so small that all the hairs with the exception of one or two finer pointed ones are removed. A few of various sizes should always be kept on hand.
Equally necessary are fine pointed needles. They are very readily put up for use by thrusting the “eye” end into a common penholder, so as to be firm. The points may be readily renewed, when injured, on a common whetstone; but when out of use they may be protected by being thrust into a piece of cork.
Knives of various kinds are required in some branches of microscopic work, but these will be described where “dissection,” &c., is treated at some length, as also various forms of scissors. In the most simple objects, however, scissors of the usual kind are necessary. Two or three sizes should always be kept at hand, sharp and in good order.
A set of glass tubes, kept in a case of some sort to prevent breakage, should form part of our “fittings” and be always cleaned immediately after use. These are generally from six to ten inches long and from one-eighth to a quarter of an inch in diameter. One of these should be straight and equal in width at both ends; one should be11 drawn out gradually to a fine point; another should be pointed as the last, but be slightly curved at the compressed end, in order to reach points otherwise unattainable. It is well to have these tubes of various widths at the points, as in some waters the finer would be inevitably stopped. For other purposes the fine ones are very useful, especially in the transfer of “preservative liquids” which will come under notice in another chapter.
Forceps are required in almost all microscopic manipulations, and consequently are scarcely ever omitted from the microscopic box, even the most meagrely furnished; but of these there............
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