ORDINARY TRICKS PERFORMED BY DOGS.
 
Every dog who has the good or ill fortune to be a member of civilized society is usually fated to undergo a more or less systematic education “in the way he should go.” This education may be either in the primitive style illustrated by the administration of a vigorous kick accompanying the command “get out,” to teach the dog to leave you, or the more elaborate training which culminates in the production of a canine prodigy. The capacity for education in dogs varies much with different varieties, and even with individuals of the same variety. While some are taught with the greatest difficulty, others display a wonderful aptitude for learning, and acquire a proficiency which is often really surprising. Whether it is proposed to educate the animal as much as his capacity will admit of, or merely to teach him the things necessary for common convenience, the first thing is
TO TEACH HIM HIS NAME.
 
If a dog has any particular name by which he is usually addressed, he will in time learn to answer to it. With a little system, however, he will learn much sooner than otherwise, and where there are several dogs it is a good plan to make each know his own distinctive title thoroughly, and to respond promptly to it. This will render your intercourse with, and your management of them, both easier and pleasanter. It may be accomplished by a very simple process. When you feed them, call each one by name to his food. If any of the others come forward, send them back. By dividing the food into small morsels and calling each dog in turn to receive his piece, always insisting that he and no other shall receive it, considerable of a lesson may be derived from each meal. When convenient take 80them out to walk, being careful to provide yourself with a few crackers or a piece of bread. Allow the dogs to ramble about at their pleasure, and whenever you choose call some particular one by his name; when he comes to you reward him with a piece of cracker. By-and-by call some other one, and continue the plan at your discretion. At the end of ten or a dozen lessons they will have pretty well learned their names, and come at your call. If you have only one dog, the plan would be about the same.
TO LEAP.
 
This is very a simple trick and easily taught. A line or pole may be extended from any convenient supports, just so high that the dog cannot step over. Take your station on one side of this barrier with a supply of bread or cracker. By the offer of a small piece induce him to approach as near as possible to the line or pole, keeping the tid-bit close to his nose, but raised a trifle above it. Now, with a sudden movement, extend your hand beyond the barrier, crying at the same moment, “hip,” or any other quick, inspiring exclamation. Eager to get the tempting morsel he will leap over, and the same proceeding may be repeated once or twice, when he should be rewarded with the bait he has been striving for. After a few repetitions he will probably leap over at a motion of the hand and the word of command. He should always be rewarded for obeying, and it is well to have a light switch with which to give him a gentle cut should he attempt to run under, which he should never be permitted to do. The hight of the barrier may be increased gradually from day to day, taking care never to over-task his powers. With practice many dogs acquire the ability of making very creditable leaps. We had an old dog who had been attached to a circus in his youth, and had been rather “fast” in his proclivities. Not being content to settle down to the quiet peacefulness of a back-yard existence, which he probably considered rather slow, he was in the habit of leaping over a fence at least ten feet high and plentifully studded with spikes, that he might indulge in a nightly canine spree with other festive dogs of his acquaintance.
When the dog leaps readily over a bar, a hoop may be held in the hand and the same system pursued. The hoop may be gradually lessened in size until the dog finally leaps through one hardly bigger around than his own body, but to do this the trainer must display some skill in conforming the motions of the hoop to those of the dog as he passes through.
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TO WALK ERECT.
 
 
WALKING ERECT.
Hold a bone or other like temptation a little above the dog’s nose, but not so high as to lead him to jump to get it. As he reaches for it raise it so as to induce him to rise up on his hind feet, saying as you do so, “up, up!” When he reaches the proper stand-point, let him remain there a moment or two and then let him have the bone. Soon he will stand up on your merely holding your hand in the position described and saying, “up, up.” Then he may be taught to walk in this position by slowly moving the bone or your hand slightly in advance. These exercises should not be tediously prolonged, especially at first, for the position is an unnatural and very fatiguing one to the animal. After he thoroughly understands what is required of him you may check any attempt he may make to regain his natural position before you are willing, by a gentle tap under the chin or under the fore paws.
TO DANCE.
 
A dog is generally considered sufficiently accomplished in this “graceful and agreeable art” when he has learned to hop around on his hind legs, and to keep turning completely around at short intervals. There are several modes of arriving at this result, the most simple of which is, probably, to take a long 82switch, after the dog has learned to stand erect, and to this switch attach a piece of meat. With this you can trace out in the air, in tempting proximity to his nose, the figures you wish him to take, and you may depend upon his instinct leading him to follow the motions of the switch. This may seem rather an absurd plan for initiating your pupil into the mysteries of the ball-room, but it is nevertheless one of the most effective that can be devised. The dog should be rewarded with the meat after he has danced enough to fairly earn it, and after a few lessons the switch may be used without any bait attached. He will at first follow its motions in the hope that there is something attached, and if he be rewarded for doing so, he will soon comprehend that following the switch means meat by-and-by. If he is dressed up in feminine apparel, as is generally done at public exhibitions, the absurd figure he cuts, and the ridiculous caricature of a lady “tripping the light fantastic toe” which he presents, is extremely laughable.
TO JUMP ROPE.
 
After the dog has learned to leap at your command a light rope may be substituted for the pole, one end of the rope being attached to some stationary object while the other end is held in your hand. Exercise the dog a few times at leaping the rope while it is without motion, and near the ground, using the command “hip,” or whatever one he has been trained to leap with, each time. Then give the rope a slight motion and at the proper moment give the dog the usual command and he will obey it. By increasing the motion very gradually he will, after many lessons, be able to jump rope very creditably. He may be taught either to jump while standing on his full complement of legs, or in the perpendicular fashion.
TO SIT AND LIE DOWN.
 
It is one thing to have your dog do a thing at his own convenience and of his own free will, and quite another thing to have him perform the same action at your desire, especially if he had a little rather not do it. This applies particularly to sitting or lying down, for it usually happens that when you desire him to do so he feels least inclined; but it is the trainer’s business to bend the animal’s will to his own, and in this case it may be done thus: Taking your position with the dog in front of you, raise one hand over his head and make a motion with it as though about to strike him on the top of his head with your palm; as you do so repeat the word “down” distinctly and commandingly, with each motion of the hand. This should not 83be done as a menace, but to indicate your wishes. While you do this, press firmly with your other hand upon his back, just over the hips,—this pressure will assist in making him take the desired position. When he has done so he should be patted and made to understand that he has done right. Repeat until he obeys the command readily, and then teach him to lie down, which consists in forcing him into a recumbent posture, as you command him to “lie down!”
TO BEG.
 
After the dog has learned to stand erect he may easily be taught to beg. All that is requisite is to press him down in the desired position; if he attempts to leave it a gentle tap on the head with the switch will be sufficient to control him. He may, if preferred, be taught to beg without learning to stand erect; in this case he may be made to sit down and then, pressing his haunches down to prevent his rising to his feet, tap him under the chin till he takes the right position. Repetition is of course necessary until he learns what is desired, and each time you place him in position it is well to say “beg” two or three times so he may associate the word with the act. Dogs, like many of the human race, after they have “got the hang of it,” will beg persistently for the sake of an occasional trifling reward.
TO GIVE HIS PAW.
 
There is scarcely a boy’s pet dog who has not acquired this very simple trick, though his master probably would not recollect how it was taught. Perhaps it was the dog’s sociable feelings that led him to perform the kindly ceremony of “shaking hands,” or perhaps it was due to the instinctive good breeding which is sometimes accredited to some people—and why not also to some dogs? Whether politeness is a grace which adorns the canine character, however, is a question we hardly feel prepared to discuss, and it is much more probable that Master Harry, (or James, or whatever his name may be), with no special thought in regard to the matter, hit upon the secret which underlies all animal training—compelling obedience to a command until the command is obeyed without compulsion. What was more natural for our friend Harry, when he first gave the momentous command of “paw,” and Carlo utterly in the dark as to its signification, taking no notice of it—than to grip Carlo’s fore “limb” and give it a shake? Nothing in the world more natural. This is probably repeated at odd times until Carlo learns to give his paw when Harry says “paw,” or holds out his paw.
84If the same paw is always given, as it will be if during the training that one be always taken, the dog may be taught to offer the other one when you ask for the “other paw,” by merely taking it a few times when you make the request. By using “paw” for one and “other paw” for the other—“paw” first—the dog will seldom get them confused. It is preferable and makes the performance seem better, while it is really no more difficult, if the words “right” and “left” are used in connection with the commands. It is just as easy for a dog to learn the difference between “right paw” and “left paw,” as between “paw” and “other paw.” It is well to lay extra stress upon “right” and “left” while training, and these words should be pronounced very distinctly. Should the dog offer the wrong paw merely repeat your former command until he changes it, then take it in your hand, call him “good dog,” and pat his head to let him know he has done right.
A little boy of our acquaintance had a very handsome Newfoundland dog, and having often heard the family physician desire members of the family to let him feel their pulse, he thought it would be a capital idea, and having coaxed the cook to give him some choice bits of beef-steak, he commenced practice. “Let me feel your pulse, Bruno,” says he, and taking Bruno’s paw in his fingers he imitated the doctor with a comical childish assumption of professional gravity. He scarcely intended, when he commenced, to make Bruno offer his pulse for examination at his desire, but Bruno was an intelligent dog and the beef-steak was very good, and before long he would stick his paw out as nicely as could be desired. Our little friend, delighted with the result of his efforts, lost no opportunity of showing off Bruno’s accomplishment, and the dog was continually holding out his “pulse” for the examination of visitors. The doctor calling some time after was somewhat amused at our little friend’s request to Bruno to “let the doctor feel your pulse,” and Bruno’s ready compliance therewith.
We had a half-grown puppy of one of the larger breeds some years since, which by constant training became so used to offering his paw that he would do so to visitors or others without being ordered to. One day a strange cat intruded upon the premises, and puppy made a rush at it with every token of hostility. When near it, however, habit appeared to gain a mastery, for he held out his paw as usual. The cat being irritated by his previous threatening aspect merely struck at him with her claws, inflicting quite a severe scratch, whereupon puppy, perceiving politeness to be at a discount, pitched in and routed the enemy gallantly.
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TO SNEEZE.
 
On a recent visit to a friend we came across a dog who would sneeze in a most natural manner whenever his master said, “Sneeze, Zip.” This being the only example of a dog performing this trick which we had ever seen we desired our friend to give us some particulars of the manner of teaching the trick, which he obligingly did, to this effect: “One afternoon, having nothing more important to do, I was amusing myself by bothering Zip with a long feather which I poked in his face, to induce him to snap at it. While doing this I by chance tickled his nose, he immediately commenced sneezing. Once commenced, it seemed as though he would never stop, and I said, rather sarcastically, ‘Sneeze, Zip.’ I don’t suppose my words had any effect, but he certainly did sneeze; this gave me the idea of teaching him to repeat it at my bidding. Armed with my feather I commenced operations; tickling his nose gently each time I repeated the command. He didn’t like the feather very well, and by-and-by, as though his imagination foreshadowed its effects, he would sneeze on having it pointed in close proximity to his nose. At odd times when I had a little idle time on my hands, I repeated the exercise, and the dog in a few weeks would sneeze very creditably when I commanded. I was in the habit of rewarding every first rate sneeze with a butter cracker, of which Zip was very fond. Zip has since had the reputation of suffering from severe colds in the head.”
This was the only special accomplishment which Zip possessed, and whether this was the result of peculiarly sensitive olfactory organs or his master’s training we are unable to say. Of the merits of the latter we are not prepared to speak, having never given the system an actual trial, but we should imagine that such a course might succeed.
TO SPEAK FOR IT.
 
This may be taught either in connection with the preceding trick, as a portion of it, or by itself. If the former, it is better to let the dog thoroughly master the first part, begging, before it is attempted to teach him to “speak for it.” Take a piece of some article of food which he is fond of, and allowing him to see it, command him to “speak for it!” Of course he will not understand what you mean, and will probably only gaze wistfully at the morsel. By-and-by he will grow impatient and give vent to a sharp bark. The moment he has done this give him the article, for although he has not understood you he has done what you desired, and by rewarding him he learns that 86this is the case. Practice him a little at some of his old tricks with another reward at hand to encourage him. Should he try the experiment of barking while thus engaged no notice should be taken of it, for it is not desired that he should bark except he be told to, and his doing so in other cases should never be rewarded. When you wish it, repeat the command of “speak for it,” and when he obeys reward him. If at first he does not show an inclination to bark he may be stimulated to do so by your giving a “bow-wow” yourself in as doggish a manner as you are able. This encroachment on his language will generally have the desired effect, for few dogs can resist replying to this act which they no doubt deem an impertinent meddling with their “mother tongue.”
TO FETCH AND CARRY.
 
 
DOG TAUGHT TO CARRY BASKET.
This accomplishment may often be put to great practical use, and it is an excellent plan to teach all dogs, which are large enough to be of any service in this manner, to carry baskets or parcels when accompanying their masters. The mode of training is very simple, consisting of merely placing the article in the dog’s mouth, and when he lets go of it give him a slight box on the ear and replace the article in his mouth. Whatever is given him to carry should be of such a form as to be grasped 87easily by him without hurting his mouth or teeth. The weight should at first be very light and never more than he can easily carry. Most dogs will take a real pleasure in carrying articles in this manner, and they seem to feel the responsibility attached to their duty, for they will carry their own or their master’s dinner without attempting to appropriate any portion of it until the proper time when their share shall be given them. In teaching dogs to carry food, however, it is necessary to take a little special pains to overcome their instinctive inclinations to eat it. A good plan is to place the article in a covered basket which they cannot open, and when the dog has learned to carry an ordinary parcel give him this. If he attempts to get at the food, which he readily detects by his sense of smell, box his ears. By-and-by reward him with the food, and then try him with a basket from which he can abstract the contents; if he tries to do so punish him slightly, never permitting him to steal the food. If a dog ever deserves a reward for well doing he certainly does in this case, for it is too bad to tantalize him with the smell of some dainty and then not to let him finally have something for his good conduct.
To make a dog carry articles from one person to another it is only necessary for two persons to take their position at some distance from one another. One gives the dog some article saying, “go, sir,” at the same time. As the first says this let the other person call or whistle to the dog. Now let this one give the dog some thing and let the other one call him, and so on back and forth until he will go from one to the other at the command, “go, sir.” The distance between the parties may be increased from time to time, and the trick may be varied by one of them hiding himself, this will teach the dog to hunt for the person to whom he is to deliver the article, which will prove useful when you by-and-b............